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Pondicherry, the ‘Riviera of the East’, is
a quaint little city, which retains its
French character even 50 years after it
merged with the Union. The picturesque
drive from Chennai to Pondicherry is 170
km and takes about two and a half hours on
the East Coast Road.
The French connection is still visible in
the statues of Dupleix and Joan of Arc,
the signboards, architecture and the smart
red kepis (caps) of the policemen. The
oval shaped city with its neatly aligned
streets has been constructed on the lines
of French influenced Mediterranean town
planning. Everything about the city has a
leisurely pace including the traffic – the
most popular mode being bicycles. The city
has an eclectic mix of French and Indian
culture. It has a legacy of 19th century
churches like the Church of the Sacred
Heart of Jesus, the Eglise de Notre Dame
de la Conception, the Eglise de Notre Dame
des Anges, the Eglise de Notre Dame de
Lourdes and the Chapel of the Sisters of
Cluny. |
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There are more than 350 temples in and
around Pondicherry, 75 of them dedicated to
Lord Ganesha. The Varadaraja Temple and
Villenour's Thyirukameswarar Temple, both
date back to the 12th century. The Car
Festival of Thirukameswarar Temple attracts
thousands of pilgrims every year.
The Beach:
The beach at Pondicherry is a wonderful
place to walk and relax. The city ends at
the beach with the waves crashing against
the rocks. There is one-and-a-half km
promenade that offers a delightful view of
the beach and quaint buildings facing the
sea. On the beach front stands a statue of
Mahatma Gandhi surrounded by eight,
exquisitely carved monolithic pillars and a
War Memorial raised by the French in honour
of those who died in World War I. On the
opposite side are buildings of French
architecture that house restaurants and
shops selling intriguing wares like paper
lampshades, earthenware, pot pouri and
aromatic incense sticks made in Auroville.
The Aurobindo Ashram:
The Aurobindo Ashram exudes an aura of peace
and harmony. It is a quiet place to reflect
and meditate. The Ashram was built with the
object of creating an evolution of a higher
spiritual consciousness. It has more than
1,500 spiritual seekers from every part of
the world today.
Pondicherry Museum:
Occupying the premises of what was form erly
the Government Library is the Pondicherry
Museum, which is a treasure house of
antiques. Besides a section on French India
with rooms done in typical French style, the
museum devotes sections to archaeology,
geology, sculpture, bronzes, arms, print,
handicraft and art.
Botanical Gardens:
The gardens were planned by C.S. Perrotet
and laid out in 1826. The gardens preserve a
large variety of exotic species of plants.
Beach Road:
The 1.5 km long section is the best
entertainment centre of the city. The
uncluttered beach is good for bathing
throughout the year. It is often possible to
spot dolphins gamboling in the sea close to
the beach. Various dining and beach-sport
entertainment are available.
Fairs & Festivals
International Yoga Festival (January):
Amidst an international gathering, yogic art
is displayed through practice sessions,
seminars, shows, etc.
Maasi Magam (March):
The festival, now over a century old, is
celebrated just north of the fishing village
of Kurichikuppam. Deities from about 38
temples are brought in a procession to
Pondicherry and taken around the town to the
loud accompaniment of Nadaswaram (horns).
Then, the images of chakra (the
discuss of Lord Vishnu) and trisul
(the trident symbol of Lord Shiva) are
chosen for ablutions in the sea.
Mangani (July):
Celebrated specially at Karaikal, the
month-long festivities are dedicated to
Karaikal Ammaiyar and for four days
important events from her life are enacted.
The image of Lord Shiva in a decorated
palanquin is taken out in a procession
through the streets of the town at which the
townsfolk throw mangoes from rooftops, much
to the delight of the crowd gathered below.
Bastille Day (14 July):
It is marked by an Indo-French pageantry.
Uniformed war veterans march through the
streets singing Marseillaise.
Fete de Pondicherry (15-17 August):
A cultural pageant, coinciding with the
Liberation Day and the Independence Day. The
Park Monument is brilliantly decorated with
lights.
Eating Out
Being a coastal city with a big fishing
community, seafood is special to the region.
Also, in consonance with the rest of South
India, rice is staple in every cuisine. The
French heritage is also reflected in a large
number of restaurants offering a selection
of that cuisine in the regular fare.
There are many good restaurants, especially
on the Beach Road, serving quality Chinese,
Vietnamese, south and north Indian,
Chettinad and French cuisine. Another dining
out option is the many food stalls that come
up in the evening along the Beach Road.
These serve a variety of fare, mostly of
fast-food type, ranging from seafood to
snacks to Chinese.
How to Reach There ?
By Air :
The nearest
airport is at Chennai and Tiruchirapalli.
By Rail
: Though Pondicherry is a railway terminal
on the Southern Railway, it is only
connected by a meter-gauge line.The railway
station is located only one km from
downtown. Taxis and auto-rickshaws are
available (negotiable rates) for transfer to
different points in the territory.
By Road
Pondicherry is linked by an excellent
network of roads with all major centres in
the region. The East Coast Highway from
Chennai provides one of the best access
options to the city. The 163 km journey on
the wide and smooth two-lane highway can be
a driving pleasure as the road runs close to
the coast for most of the distance. Beyond
the initial about 20 km, where the highway
runs through Chennai’s suburban localities
and, consequently, some heavy local traffic,
one is able to maintain good progress.
However, this stretch contains most of the
amusement centres, like VGP, MGM, Crocodile
Park, etc.
The next important stretch is till the beach
resort town of Mamallapuram (60 km from
Chennai), which the highway skirts by about
3 km. Excellent beachside hotels, including
Taj’s Covelong Beach Resort are dotted along
the road. Good rest and recreation
facilities are available throughout the
route till Pondicherry. East Coast Highway
is a toll road.
Road distances to some other important
cities are: Chidambaram 68 km, Mamallapuram
105 km, Thanjavur 198 km and Bangalore 303
km.
Chennai is also the major gateway for bus
services to Pondicherry, with buses
operating between the two centres at almost
five minutes interval. Equally frequent
services are available to Villupuram.
There are two major bus stations in
Pondicherry, State Express Bus Stand, of
Express Transport Service of Tamil Nadu, and
General Bus Stand, both located close to
each other and downtown. |